Now it is time to remember that it was springtime when the Passover story took place. As we dip our spring greens (parsley) in salt water, we remember the tears of our ancestors in the land of Egypt.
Take less than a kezayit (the volume of one olive) of the karpas (parsley), dip it into salt-water, and recite the following blessing:
בָּרוּךְ אַתָּה יי אֱלֹהֵינוּ מֶלֶךְ הָעוֹלָם, בּוֹרֵא פְּרִי הָאֲדָמָה
Baruch Atah Adonai, Eloheinu melech ha’olam, borei p’ri ha’adamah.
Blessed are You, Lord, our God, Ruler of the universe, who creates the fruit of the earth.
You may now eat the karpas.
Director’s Note: You can either read this skit free-form by going around the table and having everyone take turns, or you can assign parts, or you can just have two people take turns reading … whatever makes your Hanukkah kick-ass! If you’re going big, then you’ll want to include the following props: Salty cheese, a bottle of wine (Manischewitz is best), a wine glass and a plastic sword. Have fun!
MACCABEE: 19 lines
BAKER: 19 lines
JUDITH (A BEAUTIFUL JEWISH WIDOW): 10 lines
JUDITH’S MAID: 7 lines
HOLOFERNES (AN ASSYRIAN GENERAL): 9 lines
NARRATOR: 8 lines
NARRATOR: The setting is a battle during the Maccabee uprising against the Assyrian occupation of Judea, circa 168 B.C.E. Scene 1 takes place in the town of Bethulia, near Jerusalem.
MACCABEE: Hey there. I’m a Maccabee.
BAKER: Oh, wow. That’s my favorite cookie. Kind of a specialty of mine!
MACCABEE: No – not a macaroon – a Maccabee. Anyway, I’m here to tell you a cool Hanukkah story you may never have heard before – the story of Judith and the Salty Cheese.
BAKER: I’d rather hear a story about macaroons.
MACCABEE: Shush. You’ll like this story. So, around 168 B.C.E…
BAKER: Whoah – “B.C.E.?” What is that, some sort of boy band?
MACCABEE: No – it means “Before the Common Era.” Just think of it as the year 3593, because that’s what it was on the Jewish calendar. Anyway, during this time, the Jews were fighting to retake the land of Judea after it had been invaded by the Assyrians.
BAKER: The Syrians invaded our land?
MACCABEE: Not the Syrians – the Assyrians.
BAKER: What’s an Assyrian?
MACCABEE: The Assyrians lived in what is now northern Iraq, which used to be ruled by the Greeks.
BAKER: This is getting very confusing. Were we fighting the Assyrians, the Iraqis, or the Greeks?
MACCABEE: That’s not important right now! The point is, it was a seriously tough battle. There were only a few hundred Maccabees fighting thousands of Assyrians. And to make matters worse, the Assyrians had the meanest, toughest general we ever saw. His name was Holofernes.
BAKER: His name was what?
MACCABEE: Holofernes!
BAKER: That’s like the worst name ever. It sounds like a potted plant. Maybe that’s why he was so mean?
MACCABEE: Maybe. Anyway, his mission was to defeat the Jews. And it was working, too. Holofernes had cut off their food and water supply, and they were quickly running out of everything.
BAKER: Even macaroons?
MACCABEE: ENOUGH WITH THE MACAROONS! THERE ARE NO MACAROONS IN THIS STORY!
BAKER: Oh, OK. Sorry.
MACCABEE: All right, I’ll add some macaroons at the end if you’ll just let me get through this part.
BAKER: Deal.
MACCABEE: OK. Luckily for us, there was a beautiful Jewish woman named Judith. She was a widow who was tired of seeing her people oppressed by the Assyrians. So she hatched a plan.
JUDITH: I have hatched a plan! I shall go to see Holofernes, along with some salty cheese, a bottle of wine, and my trusty maid.
MAID: I’m the maid.
BAKER: Wait – why does Judith have a maid?
MACCABEE: Everyone had a maid in those days.
BAKER: But I mean like, if her people were oppressed and didn’t even have enough food and water, how did she have wine and cheese? And for that matter, how could she a afford a maid?
MAID: Excellent question.
MACCABEE: Quiet! Judith, I’m sorry. Please continue.
JUDITH: Thank you. I shall go with this salty cheese, some wine, and my trusty maid [SHOOTS BAKER A LOOK] who continues to work for me even though I can’t pay her right now. I may wind up dead, but I’ve got to try to save my people. But first, I need to put on some foxy clothes. Maid, fetch me that red backless Valentino and the black Manolo slingbacks.
MAID: These are her clothes. And yet she can’t afford to pay me.
NARRATOR: Judith and Maid exit.
BAKER: Wait – why is Judith putting on foxy clothes to take on an evil general? How is that going to… oh, I see where this is going.
NARRATOR: Judith and the Maid enter the Assyrian camp.
JUDITH: Yooo hooo… Holofernes!
HOLOFERNES: Who dares enter my camp? I shall smite you and make you rue the day you… [SPOTTING JUDITH]… whoah. Well, hello. You’re mighty foxy. Who are you?
JUDITH: Hi, I’m Judith. And you’re mighty handsome yourself… for an evil general who wants to starve my people to death, that is.
HOLOFERNES: Wow! Thanks! How about if you hang out here while I figure out how I’m going to kill every last one of those Jewish Maccabees?
JUDITH: That sounds perfect. But you know what? You look a little tired and hungry. Why don’t you come to my tent and rest while my maid whips you up a little snack?
HOLOFERNES: Your maid? [SPOTS MAID.] Oh, hey. I didn’t even notice you were here.
MAID: Story of my life.
HOLOFERNES: OK, well, I guess I could use a nosh.
NARRATOR: Holofernes and Judith go into her tent.
JUDITH: Maid, give the general some of my delicious cheese.
MAID: Yes, your majesty.
NARRATOR: Maid hands Holofernes a big piece of white cheese.
HOLOFERNES: Wow. This is delicious. Hey, this cheese is making me so thirsty.
JUDITH: Maid, give the general some of my delicious red wine.
HOLOFERNES: Oh, I really shouldn’t drink before going into battle.
JUDITH: Oh, don’t worry. I’m sure your army is going to be victorious. They’ve got you to lead them, and you’re such a big, strong hunk of a man.
MAID: I gotta admit, she’s pretty good at this.
HOLOFERNES: I guess you’re right. All right, pour me some of that wine. [MAKES GULPING SOUNDS] Woooh – that’s really sweet. But it goes down well with the salty cheese.
NARRATOR: Maid pours him another glass of wine, which he guzzles down as he eats another big chunk of cheese.
HOLOFERNES: Yeah, that’s delicious. [HICCUP.] Oh, man. I’m getting really sleepy.
JUDITH: Then why don’t you just lie down for a minute?
HOLOFERNES: Well… all right – just for a little while. Don’t let me sleep more than 45 minutes, OK? Cuz I really gotta go kill some Jewzzzzzzzzz…
NARRATOR: Holofernes falls asleep and begins to snore loudly. Judith then grabs his sword from his belt.
JUDITH: Sweet dreams, sleepyhead. And speaking of your head… HA-YA!
NARRATOR: Judith wields the sword and chops Holofernes’s head off.
MAID: HOLY CRAP! YOU JUST CHOPPED HIS HEAD OFF! I did NOT see that coming!
BAKER: Me neither! This story is crazy!
MACCABEE: And you won’t believe what happened next. Judith took Holofernes’s head and hung it outside the tent for all the Assyrians to see. Once they saw their general had been slaughtered, and by a woman, they completely freaked out! And the Maccabees got a second wind when they saw what a champ Judith was, and they kicked some Assyrian ass!
BAKER: And THEN they all ate macaroons?
MACCABEE: [SIGHS.] Yeah, then they all ate macaroons to celebrate. And because of Judith and her incredible bravery, in addition to the latkes and jelly donuts that we eat on Hanukkah, we also eat salty cheese.
BAKER: Like Feta?
MACCABEE: Sure, like Feta.
BAKER: I have another question.
MACCABEE: Of course you do.
BAKER: Actually, two. Why do we spell “Hanukkah” so many different ways, and why is it that we remember the Maccabees, who were super-fit and strong like you, by eating heavy fried food and cheese?
MACCABEE: Those, my friend, are very good questions that even I can’t answer. Now I’m really hungry, so when I count to three, all listeners and actors wish each other Happy Hanukkah with feeling! One… two… three!
EVERYONE: HAPPY HANUKKAH!
It is very likely that you are reading this in the Diaspora, a word which here means “everywhere in the universe except Israel.” Even though Israel is designated as the Jewish homeland, most Jews live in the Diaspora, for any number of good or bad reasons. Whatever your reasons are for living in the Diaspora, to some extent Israel is still your home tonight, for when we read the story of Passover and think about the journey from slavery to freedom, you accompany those Jewish slaves on that journey, and part of their struggle stays with you, the way the heroes of any good story stay with you long after you are done reading. Their journey ends in Jerusalem, a place of freedom and safety for the Jewish people, and so we end the Seder with the words “Next year in Jerusalem,” acknowledging their longing for a home and their satisfaction at finally finding one. Even if you do not believe you will celebrate Passover next year in Jerusalem, you may say these words and think of your own home, which I hope is one of freedom and safety, and the journey of all the people in the world, which are often difficult and treacherous, as they try to find homes for themselves. Next year, we hope everyone in the world has freedom and safety and can celebrate holidays in a home full of fellow travelers who wish them well, just as everyone at this Passover table wishes you well, even the person you like the least. Let us be grateful for the homes we have, and hopeful for the homes of others, this year and the Diaspora, and next year in Jerusalem.
By Jeffrey Yoskowitz & Liz Alpern
If you haven’t made homemade pickles yet, the recipe also works with store-bought sours. Fried pickles make a great hors d’oeuvre, especially with the garlic aioli. Sweet pickles will definitely work in place of sour pickles, but may put your Ashkenazi street cred in jeopardy. Note that a thermometer is important for this recipe.
Serves 8
INGREDIENTS
FOR THE AIOLI:
1 large egg
1 egg yolk
2 Tbsp fresh lemon juice
1 Tbsp spicy brown mustard, homemade (page 32) or store-bought
2 garlic cloves, crushed
½ cup grapeseed oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE FRIED PICKLES:
Peanut or canola oil, for frying
6 large sour or half sour dill pickles, store-bought or homemade, cut into ½-inch thick rounds
2 Tbsp all-purpose flour
4 large eggs, beaten
1 cup panko bread crumbs
1 tsp ground coriander
¼ tsp mustard powder
1 tsp kosher salt
DIRECTIONS:
1. To make the aioli: In a blender or food processor, combine the egg, egg yolk, lemon juice, mustard, and garlic. With the machine running, slowly drizzle in the oil and blend until the aioli thickens. (Your blender or food processor will do this easily and quickly, but you can also make the aioli in a large bowl and whisk the oil in by hand.) Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to a small bowl, cover, and refrigerate until ready to serve.
2. To make the fried pickles: Fill a large, heavy-bottomed pot with at least 2 inches of oil for effective frying and attach a thermometer to the side. (The thermometer is critical here.) Heat the oil over medium heat to 325ºF. Be patient. This may take a few minutes. Monitor the temperature and do not let it go above 325ºF.
3. Meanwhile, set up four wide, shallow bowls near your stovetop. In one, place the pickle rounds; in the next, place the flour; in the next, place the eggs; and in the last, place the panko, coriander, mustard, and salt and whisk with a fork to combine. Finally, line a wide plate with paper towels and set it nearby.
4. Once your oil has reached 325ºF, you’re ready to fry. Coat a pickle round in flour, then dip it in the egg, then in the panko. Carefully drop it in the hot oil—avoid splashing. It’s important that the temperature doesn’t dip too low, so work on about 4 pickle rounds at a time and don’t crowd the pot. Fry the pickle rounds until the coating turns golden brown. This should take about 1 minute per batch. We recommend timing this. You don’t want them to get any darker and burn.
5. Using a small mesh strainer or spider (or even a fork, but be careful), transfer the fried pickles to the paper towel–lined plate. Repeat with the remaining pickle rounds. Fried foods are best served immediately, so if you are serving these for a party or other gathering, set up your frying station in advance and start frying when everyone has arrived. Serve with the aioli on the side for dipping.
Excerpted from the book THE GEFILTE MANIFESTO by Jeffrey Yoskowitz & Liz Alpern. Copyright ©2016 by Gefilte Manifesto LLC. Reprinted with permission from Flatiron Books. All rights reserved.
Now it is time to remember that it was springtime when the Passover story took place. As we dip our spring greens (parsley) in salt water, we remember the tears of our ancestors in the land of Egypt.
Take less than a kezayit (the volume of one olive) of the karpas (parsley), dip it into salt-water, and recite the following blessing:
בָּרוּךְ אַתָּה יי אֱלֹהֵינוּ מֶלֶךְ הָעוֹלָם, בּוֹרֵא פְּרִי הָאֲדָמָה
Baruch Atah Adonai, Eloheinu melech ha’olam, borei p’ri ha’adamah.
Blessed are You, Lord, our God, Ruler of the universe, who creates the fruit of the earth.
You may now eat the karpas.
Director’s Note: You can either read this skit free-form by going around the table and having everyone take turns, or you can assign parts, or you can just have two people take turns reading … whatever makes your Hanukkah kick-ass! If you’re going big, then you’ll want to include the following props: Salty cheese, a bottle of wine (Manischewitz is best), a wine glass and a plastic sword. Have fun!
MACCABEE: 19 lines
BAKER: 19 lines
JUDITH (A BEAUTIFUL JEWISH WIDOW): 10 lines
JUDITH’S MAID: 7 lines
HOLOFERNES (AN ASSYRIAN GENERAL): 9 lines
NARRATOR: 8 lines
NARRATOR: The setting is a battle during the Maccabee uprising against the Assyrian occupation of Judea, circa 168 B.C.E. Scene 1 takes place in the town of Bethulia, near Jerusalem.
MACCABEE: Hey there. I’m a Maccabee.
BAKER: Oh, wow. That’s my favorite cookie. Kind of a specialty of mine!
MACCABEE: No – not a macaroon – a Maccabee. Anyway, I’m here to tell you a cool Hanukkah story you may never have heard before – the story of Judith and the Salty Cheese.
BAKER: I’d rather hear a story about macaroons.
MACCABEE: Shush. You’ll like this story. So, around 168 B.C.E…
BAKER: Whoah – “B.C.E.?” What is that, some sort of boy band?
MACCABEE: No – it means “Before the Common Era.” Just think of it as the year 3593, because that’s what it was on the Jewish calendar. Anyway, during this time, the Jews were fighting to retake the land of Judea after it had been invaded by the Assyrians.
BAKER: The Syrians invaded our land?
MACCABEE: Not the Syrians – the Assyrians.
BAKER: What’s an Assyrian?
MACCABEE: The Assyrians lived in what is now northern Iraq, which used to be ruled by the Greeks.
BAKER: This is getting very confusing. Were we fighting the Assyrians, the Iraqis, or the Greeks?
MACCABEE: That’s not important right now! The point is, it was a seriously tough battle. There were only a few hundred Maccabees fighting thousands of Assyrians. And to make matters worse, the Assyrians had the meanest, toughest general we ever saw. His name was Holofernes.
BAKER: His name was what?
MACCABEE: Holofernes!
BAKER: That’s like the worst name ever. It sounds like a potted plant. Maybe that’s why he was so mean?
MACCABEE: Maybe. Anyway, his mission was to defeat the Jews. And it was working, too. Holofernes had cut off their food and water supply, and they were quickly running out of everything.
BAKER: Even macaroons?
MACCABEE: ENOUGH WITH THE MACAROONS! THERE ARE NO MACAROONS IN THIS STORY!
BAKER: Oh, OK. Sorry.
MACCABEE: All right, I’ll add some macaroons at the end if you’ll just let me get through this part.
BAKER: Deal.
MACCABEE: OK. Luckily for us, there was a beautiful Jewish woman named Judith. She was a widow who was tired of seeing her people oppressed by the Assyrians. So she hatched a plan.
JUDITH: I have hatched a plan! I shall go to see Holofernes, along with some salty cheese, a bottle of wine, and my trusty maid.
MAID: I’m the maid.
BAKER: Wait – why does Judith have a maid?
MACCABEE: Everyone had a maid in those days.
BAKER: But I mean like, if her people were oppressed and didn’t even have enough food and water, how did she have wine and cheese? And for that matter, how could she a afford a maid?
MAID: Excellent question.
MACCABEE: Quiet! Judith, I’m sorry. Please continue.
JUDITH: Thank you. I shall go with this salty cheese, some wine, and my trusty maid [SHOOTS BAKER A LOOK] who continues to work for me even though I can’t pay her right now. I may wind up dead, but I’ve got to try to save my people. But first, I need to put on some foxy clothes. Maid, fetch me that red backless Valentino and the black Manolo slingbacks.
MAID: These are her clothes. And yet she can’t afford to pay me.
NARRATOR: Judith and Maid exit.
BAKER: Wait – why is Judith putting on foxy clothes to take on an evil general? How is that going to… oh, I see where this is going.
NARRATOR: Judith and the Maid enter the Assyrian camp.
JUDITH: Yooo hooo… Holofernes!
HOLOFERNES: Who dares enter my camp? I shall smite you and make you rue the day you… [SPOTTING JUDITH]… whoah. Well, hello. You’re mighty foxy. Who are you?
JUDITH: Hi, I’m Judith. And you’re mighty handsome yourself… for an evil general who wants to starve my people to death, that is.
HOLOFERNES: Wow! Thanks! How about if you hang out here while I figure out how I’m going to kill every last one of those Jewish Maccabees?
JUDITH: That sounds perfect. But you know what? You look a little tired and hungry. Why don’t you come to my tent and rest while my maid whips you up a little snack?
HOLOFERNES: Your maid? [SPOTS MAID.] Oh, hey. I didn’t even notice you were here.
MAID: Story of my life.
HOLOFERNES: OK, well, I guess I could use a nosh.
NARRATOR: Holofernes and Judith go into her tent.
JUDITH: Maid, give the general some of my delicious cheese.
MAID: Yes, your majesty.
NARRATOR: Maid hands Holofernes a big piece of white cheese.
HOLOFERNES: Wow. This is delicious. Hey, this cheese is making me so thirsty.
JUDITH: Maid, give the general some of my delicious red wine.
HOLOFERNES: Oh, I really shouldn’t drink before going into battle.
JUDITH: Oh, don’t worry. I’m sure your army is going to be victorious. They’ve got you to lead them, and you’re such a big, strong hunk of a man.
MAID: I gotta admit, she’s pretty good at this.
HOLOFERNES: I guess you’re right. All right, pour me some of that wine. [MAKES GULPING SOUNDS] Woooh – that’s really sweet. But it goes down well with the salty cheese.
NARRATOR: Maid pours him another glass of wine, which he guzzles down as he eats another big chunk of cheese.
HOLOFERNES: Yeah, that’s delicious. [HICCUP.] Oh, man. I’m getting really sleepy.
JUDITH: Then why don’t you just lie down for a minute?
HOLOFERNES: Well… all right – just for a little while. Don’t let me sleep more than 45 minutes, OK? Cuz I really gotta go kill some Jewzzzzzzzzz…
NARRATOR: Holofernes falls asleep and begins to snore loudly. Judith then grabs his sword from his belt.
JUDITH: Sweet dreams, sleepyhead. And speaking of your head… HA-YA!
NARRATOR: Judith wields the sword and chops Holofernes’s head off.
MAID: HOLY CRAP! YOU JUST CHOPPED HIS HEAD OFF! I did NOT see that coming!
BAKER: Me neither! This story is crazy!
MACCABEE: And you won’t believe what happened next. Judith took Holofernes’s head and hung it outside the tent for all the Assyrians to see. Once they saw their general had been slaughtered, and by a woman, they completely freaked out! And the Maccabees got a second wind when they saw what a champ Judith was, and they kicked some Assyrian ass!
BAKER: And THEN they all ate macaroons?
MACCABEE: [SIGHS.] Yeah, then they all ate macaroons to celebrate. And because of Judith and her incredible bravery, in addition to the latkes and jelly donuts that we eat on Hanukkah, we also eat salty cheese.
BAKER: Like Feta?
MACCABEE: Sure, like Feta.
BAKER: I have another question.
MACCABEE: Of course you do.
BAKER: Actually, two. Why do we spell “Hanukkah” so many different ways, and why is it that we remember the Maccabees, who were super-fit and strong like you, by eating heavy fried food and cheese?
MACCABEE: Those, my friend, are very good questions that even I can’t answer. Now I’m really hungry, so when I count to three, all listeners and actors wish each other Happy Hanukkah with feeling! One… two… three!
EVERYONE: HAPPY HANUKKAH!
It is very likely that you are reading this in the Diaspora, a word which here means “everywhere in the universe except Israel.” Even though Israel is designated as the Jewish homeland, most Jews live in the Diaspora, for any number of good or bad reasons. Whatever your reasons are for living in the Diaspora, to some extent Israel is still your home tonight, for when we read the story of Passover and think about the journey from slavery to freedom, you accompany those Jewish slaves on that journey, and part of their struggle stays with you, the way the heroes of any good story stay with you long after you are done reading. Their journey ends in Jerusalem, a place of freedom and safety for the Jewish people, and so we end the Seder with the words “Next year in Jerusalem,” acknowledging their longing for a home and their satisfaction at finally finding one. Even if you do not believe you will celebrate Passover next year in Jerusalem, you may say these words and think of your own home, which I hope is one of freedom and safety, and the journey of all the people in the world, which are often difficult and treacherous, as they try to find homes for themselves. Next year, we hope everyone in the world has freedom and safety and can celebrate holidays in a home full of fellow travelers who wish them well, just as everyone at this Passover table wishes you well, even the person you like the least. Let us be grateful for the homes we have, and hopeful for the homes of others, this year and the Diaspora, and next year in Jerusalem.
By Jeffrey Yoskowitz & Liz Alpern
If you haven’t made homemade pickles yet, the recipe also works with store-bought sours. Fried pickles make a great hors d’oeuvre, especially with the garlic aioli. Sweet pickles will definitely work in place of sour pickles, but may put your Ashkenazi street cred in jeopardy. Note that a thermometer is important for this recipe.
Serves 8
INGREDIENTS
FOR THE AIOLI:
1 large egg
1 egg yolk
2 Tbsp fresh lemon juice
1 Tbsp spicy brown mustard, homemade (page 32) or store-bought
2 garlic cloves, crushed
½ cup grapeseed oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE FRIED PICKLES:
Peanut or canola oil, for frying
6 large sour or half sour dill pickles, store-bought or homemade, cut into ½-inch thick rounds
2 Tbsp all-purpose flour
4 large eggs, beaten
1 cup panko bread crumbs
1 tsp ground coriander
¼ tsp mustard powder
1 tsp kosher salt
DIRECTIONS:
1. To make the aioli: In a blender or food processor, combine the egg, egg yolk, lemon juice, mustard, and garlic. With the machine running, slowly drizzle in the oil and blend until the aioli thickens. (Your blender or food processor will do this easily and quickly, but you can also make the aioli in a large bowl and whisk the oil in by hand.) Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to a small bowl, cover, and refrigerate until ready to serve.
2. To make the fried pickles: Fill a large, heavy-bottomed pot with at least 2 inches of oil for effective frying and attach a thermometer to the side. (The thermometer is critical here.) Heat the oil over medium heat to 325ºF. Be patient. This may take a few minutes. Monitor the temperature and do not let it go above 325ºF.
3. Meanwhile, set up four wide, shallow bowls near your stovetop. In one, place the pickle rounds; in the next, place the flour; in the next, place the eggs; and in the last, place the panko, coriander, mustard, and salt and whisk with a fork to combine. Finally, line a wide plate with paper towels and set it nearby.
4. Once your oil has reached 325ºF, you’re ready to fry. Coat a pickle round in flour, then dip it in the egg, then in the panko. Carefully drop it in the hot oil—avoid splashing. It’s important that the temperature doesn’t dip too low, so work on about 4 pickle rounds at a time and don’t crowd the pot. Fry the pickle rounds until the coating turns golden brown. This should take about 1 minute per batch. We recommend timing this. You don’t want them to get any darker and burn.
5. Using a small mesh strainer or spider (or even a fork, but be careful), transfer the fried pickles to the paper towel–lined plate. Repeat with the remaining pickle rounds. Fried foods are best served immediately, so if you are serving these for a party or other gathering, set up your frying station in advance and start frying when everyone has arrived. Serve with the aioli on the side for dipping.
Excerpted from the book THE GEFILTE MANIFESTO by Jeffrey Yoskowitz & Liz Alpern. Copyright ©2016 by Gefilte Manifesto LLC. Reprinted with permission from Flatiron Books. All rights reserved.
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